Following on from the Bainskloof post, the next part of our ride took us on to Wolseley where we stopped to look at the Watershed. Ok for those at don’t know a watershed is not garden shed full of water, it’s the rather curious name given to a place where drainage water divides into two separate drainage basins. In this case its where the water flows off the Land van Waveren and Witzenberg mountains and then splits and either flows out to the Indian Ocean via the Breede River or out to the Atlantic Ocean via the Berg River. Why is this special, well apparently there are very few places on Earth were this happens, normally water simply flows to the nearest ocean. So, this is a bit special and sure enough there is a signpost on the main street pointing to where this all happens, then about half a km up the side road there’s the watershed, or rather an information signboard explaining the watershed complete the maps and stuff. However, the actual water bit seems to consist of nothing more than a couple of dryish drainage ditches, bit disappointing. Perhaps, when is bucketing it down and the snow is melting off the mountains the flow is a somewhat more energetic.

Tara wanted to take photographs, proper real film stuff hence the photograph word, of some of the run down 60s style buildings she had spotted on the town’s main street, art student and all that. So hardly able to contain our excitement over the watershed, we headed back to the town centre for some more fun. Locating what I think was once the town’s cinema and now a spaza shop with some dubious upper accommodation, photographs were duly taken.

Still not done with the highlights of Wolseley we then made our way over the railways line that run parallel to the main street to what we assumed once was the station, as I may have said previously, I like trains. Assume is correct because there are no longer buildings only their foundations, ghostly bones hinting of what was probably a large and busy station by the side of four abandoned main lines, gone and now almost forgotten. Well not all abandoned one is still the main line to the North.

Lunch was now on the agenda and from a previous trip I knew of a small restaurant café, sort of halfway between Wolseley and Tulbagh, called Fynbos Café and Farmstall. Rustic kind of place and this time they had warming fires burning in the two dining rooms, menu is traditional and inexpensive. Tara had a creamy mushroom soup with chunks of bread, and I had a mac and cheese washed down with coffee. Tasty, warming and just what we needed all for less than R200, recommended, although I think they would probably need prior notice for groups larger than four.

From there we took the R46 which bypasses Tulbagh and heads through the Nuwekloof Pass. This pass has had various routes and names since 1658 and was once one of the three main trading routes into the interior of Africa. The other names being Oudekloof, Nieuwekloof, Tulbagh and then Nuwekloof, somewhat superseded by Du Toits Kloof Pass it was only modernised to its present rather undramatic route in 1968.

Continued along the R46 past the new wind farm at Gouda, pity there not a lot more, until the Hermon turning where the road becomes the R44 and the R46 turns to Riebieek Kasteel and Malmesbury. We follow the R46 over the railway at Hermon, basically another large, abandoned railway station, and then to Riebieek Kasteel where the bike needs some fuel. Riebieek village centre is buzzing this afternoon with all the restaurants busy and quite in contrast to Wolseley. Bike’s appetite satisfied it’s on to Malmesbury and from there we take the quieter and more scenic Old Malmsbury Road through to Philadelphia, wrote about this road in the Darling Ride, N7 and home.

Lovely, relaxed days ride, we had left about 10:30 and, one bike swop and 220kms later were home about 16:30.

Bainskloof Pass – Ride 4

I had heard the Bainskloof pass was finally again open, so last Friday myself and daughter, Tara, decided to take a ride out and have a look see at what had been achieved. We were going to go on Thursday, but the weather looked grim, so we postponed to Friday which turned out to be a good call as Friday dawned chilly but bright with beautiful clear blue skies.

Wrapped up warmly we mounted my trusty Honda CB1100F and set off, only to find the 1100 was not so trusty, coughing and missing which no amount of revving would clear. Damn and blast, but that’s the fun of old bike is it not, no not really. Stopped off a MHM and swopped it for a much more modern, and trustworthy retro CB1100. Then across the road to Vida for a quick breakfast and we were finally off down Bottelary Road.

Crossing over the R304, Stellenbosch Road, we continued along Komme Rhee Road to the R44, and then under the N1 and around Paarl Rock to Wellington. The upgrade to the four-way junction between the Paarl and Malmesbury road and the R44 to Wellington has also been completed and very nice it is, no longer a four way stop but traffic lights, robots, and a smooth dual lane road, much better. Up into Wellington and thought a surprise traffic police roadblock thingy, but as its loading shedding, I did not take any heed of it. Up bumpy bustling Church Street and on to Bainskloof pass which, surprise surprise, was no longer bumpy but very pleasantly smooth, although missing road markings on the Wellington side, so not quite finished, yet.

Bain’s pass follows the edge of the Limietberg Mountain on the southern Wellington, side and then the Witte River on the northern side, it is 18 kms in length and reaches a height of 594m. Opened in 1853 after 4 years of construction, it was viewed as the most venturesome project of the 19th century, in SA I assume, and employed between 300 and 450 convicts at any one time. Maybe employed is the wrong word here, it implies payment which I very much doubt happened. Initially tunnelling was tried but then abandoned due to instability of the rock and subsequent heavy falls, I wonder how many convicts it took to discover that. Regarded as Andrew Bain’s “magnum opus”, in his speech at the opening ceremony he recorded as saying “I would rather make another road than another speech, being a highwayman more accustomed to blasting and blazing”, I’m guessing the convicts may have disagreed with him there. The initial pass was gravel and designed for the horse drawn wagons of the time, with the development of motor vehicles the pass was upgraded to tarred in 1934, the last upgrade was started in 2018 and almost completed in June 2022, 4 years, same time to repair and resurface as it took to build, lots of big yellow machines but obviously no convicts this time.

The picture below, or above, is Tara and the CB1100 at the top viewpoint looking towards Paarl, the rocks can be seen middle horizon. If I remember correctly this stop used to be paved and I assume, along with the road marking, still to be done. The rest of the pass is great, smooth road, although still just as twisty as there has been no change the route, rebuild edge walls and reinforced rock faces. Very nice and recommended, just needs finishing. Four years, makes you think does it not.

This ride takes in Ride-1 only the other way, and then heads out to Darling and back via Malmesbury so a much long than Ride-1, at about 170km. Darling in summer is, what I consider too hot, so I avoid summer and do this ride in the other seasons, with spring being the favourite because then everywhere is green. Type of bike, anything really, the road past Mamre is very bumpy, so those on sports bikes will have a bit of a rough ride there, having said that, last time Chris, who is in his seventies, rode his Panigale and did not complain. I rode my Moto Guzzi Griso which was fine, and Deon was on his classic Yamaha XT500, which, despite being a lot slower compared to the other two bikes, managed to keep up. Picture below, or above.

Right, the ride starts at the Caltex on Marine Drive, Paarden Eiland, simple because this makes a good meeting place, and as I said the first part is a reverse of Ride-1, so I won’t go into detail. Ride up Marina Drive through Milnerton, were the road name changes to Otto du Plessis Drive and then to West Coast Road, not sure why. Turn left at Doplhin Beach, road again becomes Marine Drive, then back to Otto du Plessis Drive, weird, head through Blauwberg and on to Melkbossstrand. Lots of places to stop for coffee and scenic views, but we’re not doing that today.

Back to the R27, or West Coast Road, we turn left and head for Lanagbaan. The R27 is a fast road, although I would be wary of exceed 120 by much so close to town, and Koeberg Nuclear Power Station quickly comes up on our left. I have never been, but understand from friends, there is a nice walk and mountain biking trial around the grounds of Koeberg, so those who like that kind of thing go and try it out, just avoid the glowing rocks!

Next up is a turn to the right at the R307 intersection, now we have a proper fast road, good surface, nice sweeping bends, good visibility and hardly any traffic, at least at weekends, a chance to stretch the bike’s legs a bit. Follow this road all away around the side, top of Atlantis and then at the T-junction turn left towards Darling, pass Mamre, bumpy road as I said earlier. Just after Mamre there is a signpost on the left, to The Groot Post Winery, and I’ve always wondered why it is called that, in my mind Post, as in Mail, is a Post Office and I could not figure why there was a big post office in the middle of nowhere. Turns out this area was established around 1808, by the Dutch East India Company, for farming crops and livestock to supply its ship, and the then growing Cape Town. A Groote, or main, Post, guard station, along with a system of smaller Posts, was also established to protect this farming from stock theft and stuff, so nothing to do with mail after all.

Up the hill and the road improves, it was rebuilt a few years ago, no idea why they stopped halfway. This part of the ride is lovely, nice road and great scenery, on a clear day you can see, to the right, over the farmlands, the Boland Mountain Range, last time underlined with a low mist, stunning. So, a bit of a conundrum here, ride fast and enjoy the road, or slow and enjoy the views, you decide.

Over the last hill we spot Darling in the distance, and then past the Waylands wildflower reserve on the right. In spring this is a good spot to watch fridges driving all over wildflowers, cynical, me, never. Into Darling and a stop at either the Marmalade Cat or The Old Forge for brunch, see previous post, Memorable Motorcycling Restaurants for details on The Old Forge.

Off again, back out of Darling same way as we came in, but then turn left at the R315 and head to Malmesbury. A fairly fast road, quite straight, but watch out for wildlife rushing across the road, especial in spring, with all the wildflowers trying to escape the fridges. About halfway to Malmesbury we come to the first unmanned railway crossing, this is the line that goes through Darling and then up to Vredenburg via Hopefield. Further on and another unmanned railway crossing, this time the line goes up to Moorreesburg, Piketberg and then out to Lamberts Bay end up at Bitterfontein, northern most part of the Western Cape and some 465km from Cape Town. Why all the way to Bitterfontein, to transport copper from the Okiep copper mine, that, in the 1870s, was the richest copper mine in the world. After the crossing, up the hill and then down into Malmesbury town, under the newly finished N7 highway and through the town until we get to Voortrekker Road, why does every town regardless of where in is have a Voortrekker Road, answers on a post card etc.

Right to Stellenbosch, but then after about 1 km look out for the right turn to Kalbaskraal and take it. This is the Old Malmesbury Road, taking us to Philadelphia, and it is in my ‘Best Kept Secret Roads in the Cape’ list. Used to be very bumpy and potholed, but while the N7 was getting a dual carriageway makeover this road also got a makeover, rumour has it that the N7 was to become a tolled freeway and this road was made up to be the non-toll alternative, a requirement of tolling a road. Whatever, its now a great motorcycling road, sweeping up and down with enjoyable bends, good visibility, and no traffic, only needing to slow while passing through Kalbaskraal.

There was a big railway station and yard at Kalbaskraal which seems a bit incongruous, give the size of the dorpie, but look closer, it was the railway that arrived first, and, as with many other small dorpies, created the need for he dorpie. The original Kalbas Kraal being the best place to build the junction of the Malmesbury-Bitterfontein, Darling-Vredenburg and Cape Town lines. A four-line station and yard necessary for all the rail traffic going up and down the west coast in the early 1900s. Must have been quite a sight, two or three steam trains at a time, stopping and taking on water while waiting for the up or down lines to clear. Sadly, all that left today is a boarded station building and the large foot bridge, progress maybe.

On to Philadelphia, two single-track bridges end the Old Malmesbury Road, so a bit of caution here, then right to Philadelphia. If further refreshment is required, I recommend the Pepper Tree in Philadelphia, its vegetarian, so no bacon on the menu, but what they do have is different, filling, and tasty, note to self, needs to go on my ‘Favourite Destination Restaurants’ list.

The last part is Philadelphia to N7 and then back to town on the N7. A good Autumn Sunday morning ride, you only have to start at 9, and can be home in time for Sunday lunch with the family, and then a nice nap in the afternoon, perfect.

In hindsight I should have named the last ride Coastal Cruise because it was a gentle trundle along an attractive coastal route, best enjoyed on a cruiser type bike. This ride is longer, still taking in a coastal road but also offering sweeping open roads, so a sport or fast naked would be equally enjoyable this time. This, in several ways, is also a ride of contrasts, scenery, type of riding and social economic.

I normally meet my co-riders at the Caltex in Constantia Village, so we will start from there, the first part of the ride takes us out and along Orpen Rd towards Muizenburg. I like using this route instead of the M3, its more interesting and has very pleasant scenery, bits of which reminds me of where I grew up in England. Can be quite crowded, especially weekends, so a gentle warm up trundle along to Westlake and then join the Main Rd to Muizenburg.

Here we need to get to Baden Bowell Drive, so, if the traffic is heavy take the first right after the Masque Theater, over the railway crossing then follow the road around to the coast road. Alternatively go into the centre of Muzenberg and turn right to go under the extremely low railway bridge. This is the bridge that, despite lots of low bridge signs, is always catching unwary trucks. I think a bridge troll must live there so I like going this way. Other than this bridge and the rather grand railway station, I find Muizenburg a bit of a sad place, run down, has been, seaside town, still some lovely houses on the hill but the centre and beach front is a mess. So, glad to get through and out onto Paden Powell Drive by the sea. A word of warning there, the wind can blow sand across this road, and can be deeper than it appears, this can have dire consequences if ridden through unknowingly, ask me how I know.

First contrasts, we are away from the green grass and trees of Constantia and now have sand dunes and sea, and weather permitting, beautiful views on the right across False Bay to Rooi-Els. However, on the left, the quality of the houses up on the dunes are getting worse the further we travel, until we turn inland and reach Khayelitsha, and another sea view, only this time it's sea of tin shacks. The picture below, or above, says it all, a stunning reminder of how the government has completely failed the very people it is purporting to be up lifting, is this freedom, deeply depressing and frustrating.

Moving on, we cross the N2, and immediately the scene changes again, the road becomes a nice dual carriage way, to the right is Cape Town Film Studios, with lots of sailing ships, to the left wine estates and vineyards, and the temperature has gone up as we are away from the sea. Continuing along we, pass Spier and other up market wine farms, then just before the turn into Polkadraai road and Stellenbosch is Vredenheim farm. Nice for breakfast, has a collection of classic cars and grazing game, zebras, springbok, lions, tigers that type of thing. Well, actually not tigers, or lions, I just made that up, they don�t graze.

Into and round the bottom of Stellenbosch, the dual carriage way in has average speed cameras signs, I've never been caught so not sure if there are real cameras, but there are small square yellow boxes in various verges around Stellenbosch and these are real, I know, unfortunately. We pass the railway station on the left, must have been a very nice and important building in its day, but now, sadly falling into disrepair.

Over the main robots at Bird Street and then immediate right onto the Helshoogte Road. Easy through the outskirts of the town, and mind speed trap just after the last robot. Now we have mountains, vineyards, and the Helshoogte pass to enjoy, big road, smooth surface, and great bends, just don�t run out of skill. When I first came to SA, in 1982, I remember driving a Ford Escort MK2 through this pass, only then it was a very small and twisty, single carriage road with overhanging trees, quite a contrast to today.

On through Pniel, then right at the end onto the Franschhoek Road, very shortly we pass the L'Ornarins Wine Estate with its splendid motor museum. I would assume one of the wealthiest places in the country, if, however, we had instead turned left, and travelled about the same distance we would, in contrast, be passing another every growing scatter camp of tin shacks. Further along to Franschhoek, we come to the bridge over the Berg River, not sure how big or now many Berg Rivers there are in SA but the name does seem to appear all over the place. Next to our road bridge is the old railway bridge, originally the bridge served both the railway and the road, and being single track, think about it, you had to stop and make sure no opposing traffic or trains were coming.

Left onto the R301 to Paarl, this is a smaller and rougher road than previous but still quite fun once we get through Wemmershoek village and over the Wemmershoek River. Little traffic and open views mean good progress can be made, that is until we come to a roundabout, in the middle of nowhere, not sure why, rush hour must be all of 3 minutes out here. Anyway, it slows us for the right turn into Freedom 301 just after. Freedom 301 is very biker friendly, does huge burgers, only problem is that you need a shower after eating one.

Finale contrast to think about, we are now in upmarket golf-estate country, complete with private security, check points, surveillance cameras and what looks like mine fields between the high double fencing, is this freedom?

Lots of negativity around South Africa today, new spate of load sheading, power cuts to give its real name, flooding, and devastation, probably climate change, but worsened by ineptitude and corruption and of course the steadily increasing cost of living.

For motorcyclists surely the best way to briefly forget all this doom and gloom, is to get on a bike and ride. To hell with the fuel cost, ride somewhere and take in the unique beauty of the Cape scenery or find an empty road and really make use of that bike, better yet, try and combine both. In fact, it's easy to satisfy both needs in the Cape, so I thought I would share my favourite rides and the emotions these rides generate.

Right, first off is a short trundle along the west coast from Melkbosstand into the city. I live under the Tygerberg hills so I get onto the N7 at the Malibongwe, love that name, intersection, and blast up the N7 until the Melkbossstand road. If the traffic is light, I can open up and get the mood going, am already starting to feel lighter and relaxed, and if the weather is clear admirer the views across to Koeberg. Ok, perhaps ignore that, just admirer the sea. Along this until the traffic lights, robots, at the West Coast Road. Over the N7 and into Melkboss, turn right to the sea, down into beach road and there is Simple Bru, great coffee and cheap breakfast rolls in the morning.

Now the best part, a slow ride to Blaauberg, there is always traffic, so relax and enjoy the view across the bay to the city. Living there it's easily taken for granted, I remind myself that I am looking at one of the wonders of the world, right there, now, wow. There are various parking areas along there, so pull in and take this opportunity for artistic bike in front of wonder-of-the-world type pictures, see Kawasaki 300 below, or above, for instance. Best time for good results is in the early morning or evening light, this one was taken mid-day but in winter with a low sun.

Next through the 2 roundabouts, circles, and along Blaauberg beach front. Here there is always lots of activity and the several coffee kiosks make this a pleasant stop to again admire the scenery, all types.

Back on the road and straight over the circle at the end, catching a glimpse of the kite surfers then past the Dolphin Beach Hotel, infamous murder site, and right onto Otto Plessis Drive. Rietviei is on the left with the SANCCOB sea bird sanitary at the far end. At this point I usually get that 'on holiday' feeling, I think because I remember these views from when I first came to Cape Town on holiday.

Through Milnerton, careful with the speed along this bit, quite often speed traps, Woodbridge Island and Light house on the right then out past the Lagoon entrance and over the railway. On the weekend there is a huge market on the right between the road the railway line, I've never been, but understand all sorts of stuff can be purchased there, beware.

From there it is a trundle along Marine Drive to the N1. I like looking at the container trains often parking on the right, but I am peculiar that way, and for anyone who still needs coffee, a friend, Tony, recommends Roobarb, halfway along Paarden Eiland.

Then, for me a quick blast up the N1 to home. Not a long ride, so economical in terms of both time and money, but gives the bike a nice run and leaves me feeling more contented with life.